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100 Years of Engagement Rings
The engagement ring has evolved over generations. Some things changed dramatically but some things stayed the same, like the love of diamonds. While diamonds in and of themselves have changed quite a lot. Let us take you on a journey of fine jewelry through the ages using our collection of vintage engagement rings starting in the 1860s and ending in the 1960s.
Our Knife Edge balances modern design with classic jewelry making techniques of the past. Carefully handmade in our NYC workshop each Knife Edge is set with an antique old European cut diamond carefully selected for color and clarity. The ring is designed to float the diamond in a minimal setting giving light and life to the stone. The diamond is definitely the star in this ring.
How to wear it
The Flying Saucer was made as the sister to the Knife Edge. A perfect match and fit. The design is meant to be minimal. It fits perfectly flush against the Knife Edge adding a beautiful extra dimension to your look without taking away from the stunning center diamond. Made in platinum one side is encrusted with diamonds and other brushed.
1860s & 1870s Engagement Rings
Knife Edge | Flying Saucer
The oldest rings in our collection are from the mid 19th century. This decade is part of the Victorian era which spanned from 1837-1901. Jewelry from the earliest part of the Victorian era or from the era predating it, the Georgian period, is very rare.
Add a touch of gold to your wedding set with our Golden Hoop. We love the look of this band on its own for casual or vacation days when you leave your engagement ring at home. Made of pure 24 carat gold this band has a warmth and depth that makes even the most delicate band stand out. Representing eternal commitment and infinite love, this band is effortless in its simplicity and elegance.
1860s Victorian Cluster Ring
KNIFE EDGE | GOLDEN HOOP
During this time period silver and gold were the most prevalent metals. Platinum has a very high melting point and technology wasn’t developed until the late 19th century to be able to easily work with it in jewelry. Hand engraved warm toned golds were very popular. Authentic antique engraved bands from this time period are coveted to this day.
For the most unique stack at a vintage wedding band. Finding a vintage band in just your size may take time but is well worth it. Most typical are eternity bands from the Edwardian or Art Deco eras made in platinum. French cut diamonds add a stunning depth. Carre cuts are ultra modern. For a truly distinctive look go for an Art Deco chain link band (shown above).
Victorian 1860s Gold Engraved Wedding Band
Modern round brilliant diamonds became possible during this time period. The first of which was the old mine cushion. While the old mine isn’t perfectly round like the modern round brilliant it was different from any diamond before it. The most notable features are a bulky uneven shape, an eye visible culet and a tiny table.
KNIFE EDGE | ART DECO CHAIN LINK BAND
Loose Old Mine Cushion Cut Diamonds
But the first brilliants were anything but symmetrical and had all sorts of facets and outlines depending on the rough stone they were fashioned from.
1870S ANTIQUE VICTORIAN PEARL ENGAGEMENT RING
Natural pearls were prized in the 19th century. Note the pinkish luster of the pearls, patina under the mounting, and heavier more asymmetrical prongs all typical of the era.
Prior to this the rose, table and point cut were the most prevalent shapes.
1880S ENGAGEMENT RINGS
Presented here is a quintessential late Victorian style but with a slight unique flare, a yellow gold buttercup setting. Even more special though is the diamond cut featured is a rare Peruzzi cushion invented in the 17th century by Venetian lapidary Vincenzo Peruzzi.
VICTORIAN 1880S ENGAGEMENT RING
As we close the 19th century, jewelry and diamonds begin to take on a more polished and uniform look with more advanced technology.
1890S ENGAGEMENT RINGS
A note on overlapping design eras. While there are clear date distinctions. For example the Victorian era ends in 1901 with the onset of the Edwardian era, which then ends in 1910. When we date a ring as circa 1900 it can fall either under Victorian or Edwardian depending the on the design style. Especially during the years of transition there was a lot of design overlap.
ANTIQUE 1890S ENGAGEMENT RINGS
The late Victorian and early Edwardian era brings with it glittering diamonds and new masterful jewelry design. The cluster setting shown here was popular in decades past but begins to take on a more delicate look with finer prongs and more brilliant diamonds like old mine or even old European which begin to be popular during this time.
ANTIQUE 1890S MARQUISE DIAMOND ENGAGEMENT RING
The chubby proportions and faceting of this antique marquise cut diamond are typical of the time period and quite different from marquise diamonds of the 20th century.
Two toned engagement rings are quite popular during this time. Often seen with a platinum mounting and a gold band. Typical because diamonds of this time period were often warmer in color and the coolness of platinum offset the warmth of the stone.
1900S ENGAGEMENT RINGS
It was at the beginning of the Edwardian era that yellow gold and silver began to take a back seat to a "new" metal called platinum. Platinum has a high melting point which limited its use in jewelry until the invention of the oxyhydrogen torch. With this innovation in the late 1800s platinum mania swept through Europe and Russia. And following suit in the early 1900s, popularity of platinum reached the United States and captivated the American public.
1900S ANTIQUE VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ENGAGEMENT RING
Old European becomes the diamond cut of choice while old miners continue to be popular as they also evolve to have more precise faceting and symmetry.
Art Nouveau was a design movement that spanned from 1890 to 1910. Jewelry from this time period took inspiration from the natural world featuring sinuous lines and botanical motifs.
1900S VINTAGE ENGAGEMENT RINGS
As jewelry making technology advances we begin to enter the height of jewelry craftsmanship which peaks during the forthcoming Art Deco period. The Edwardian era saw a surge in popularity of elaborate and feminine settings featuring delicate filigree and metal lace work all hand crafted by lifelong master jewelers.
1910S ENGAGEMENT RINGS
Diamond cutting advances with the ability to cut perfectly round shapes and ultra glittery cuts. The old European diamond surges to the forefront of popularity. This beauty inspired the forthcoming transition cut and finally the modern round brilliant diamond. While the old Euro (as its fondly called) can be found even a few decades before it wasn't until the early 20th century that it became ubiquitous as new technology also became ever-present.
1910 EDWARDIAN ENGAGEMENT RING
Since old European cut diamonds were hand faceted without uniform parameters, these stones are truly one-of-a-kind. These big, bold and round diamonds are set in crisp platinum settings and exceedingly desirable during this day.
1910S ART DECO ASSCHER CUT DIAMOND ENGAGEMENT RING
Another fabulous cut to make itself known during the early 20th century was the innovative and brand new Asscher diamond. The Asscher cut was created in 1902 by Joseph Isaac Asscher and was the first diamond cut to be patented. The cut is similar to an emerald cut in the square shape but with cropped corners and modified faceting which creates a more brilliant look.
The Asscher cut was extremely popular, particularly in Art Deco jewelry designs. It reached its peak popularity in the 1920s, which is one of the reasons many modern brides see Asscher-cut diamonds as “antique” or “vintage.”
1910S ENGAGEMENT RINGS
As we near the 1920s the Art Deco design movement begins to inspire everything from jewelry to architecture of the day. Rings from this time period begin to exhibit more sleek shapes as design begins to move away from the traditional elegance of the past.
1920S ENGAGEMENT RINGS
Probably the most popular vintage era, the Art Deco period spans 1920-1935. Something to note only rings that display Art Deco design motifs are deemed Art Deco. However regardless if jewelry from this period is Art Deco or 1920s period, it is stunning!
1920S ENGAGEMENT RING
Engagement Rings from this time period feature clean modern lines. Solitaires in a variety of prong and mounting styles are popular.
1920S TARGET ENGAGEMENT RING
The target setting is one of the most recognizable Deco styles of the period.
The distinguishing features of the Art Deco style are simple and clean shapes. Often made from expensive materials like platinum, diamonds and other precious gems like emeralds and sapphires these stones are set in geometric or stylized forms. Though Art Deco objects were rarely mass produced, the characteristic features of the style reflected admiration for the modernity of the machine and for the inherent design qualities of machine made objects (e.g., relative simplicity, symmetry and unvaried repetition of elements).
